Don’t: Amethyst, Opal, Pearl, Tanzanite, Morganite, Moss Agate

What is a Gemstone Engagement Ring?

A gemstone engagement ring is a type of engagement ring that has a non-diamond center stone. Often designed using traditional engagement settings such as solitaires, halos, and three-stones, some couples choose less traditional settings to hold their less traditional center stone. Common gemstone choices include Sapphire, Emerald, and Ruby. Aquamarine engagement rings, Morganite engagement rings, Tanzanite engagement rings, Opal engagement rings, Moss Agate engagement rings, and Amethyst engagement rings are gaining popularity too. However, some of these stones will not stand up to daily wear.

What are the Risks and Benefits?

There are many benefits to choosing a gemstone engagement ring, including personality, uniqueness, and cost. Learning the risks associated with choosing a gemstone over a diamond will help couples better care for their gemstone engagement ring, and feel confident in their choice.

Benefits

• Fun, colorful expression
• Lower cost
• Bigger sizes and more shapes

Couples choose gemstone engagement rings for many reasons. Some like to express themselves in color. A bright red ruby engagement ring says passion. A dark blue sapphire engagement ring stands for loyalty. Couples love splashy oranges and pinks, and cool fresh greens. Gemstones are lively!

Another reason to consider a gemstone engagement ring is cost. Depending upon the stone, size, and color, gemstones are often a fraction of the cost of a similarly sized diamond. So, couples choosing a gemstone engagement ring can often afford a larger center stone in gemstone than in diamond.

Speaking of size, many gemstones regularly grow in large crystals. As a result, many gemstones are available in sizes and shapes that diamond is not. So, couples have the opportunity to choose large, fancy shapes for their special ring.

Risks

• Lower hardness
• Difficulty replacing exact stone

While there are many benefits to gemstone engagement rings, there are risks to consider before purchase too. Because gemstones are not as hard as diamond, gemstone engagement rings may scratch or chip more easily. Couples can protect against this by choosing a hard gemstone, and by designing a protective setting.

Another issue to be aware of is that gemstones’ unique colors and shapes can be more difficult to replace in the event of loss or breakage. Because gemstones are often cut in less standard shapes than diamonds, couples may have a harder time finding the exact measurements of their original stone. Likewise, as gemstone color is so unique – consider all the various shades of “blue” at the paint store – finding the exact color you originally had can be tough. Couples can protect themselves by having a gemologist appraise and color grade their gemstone so they have an exact record.

Are They Durable Enough?

Some gemstones are – and some aren’t. One of the reasons you’ll hear a “diamond is forever” is because diamonds are a 10/10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. This means that diamond is (literally) the hardest substance known to man. There is nothing that can scratch at diamond except for, you guessed it, another diamond. Non-diamond gemstones are not as hard. However, neither is the glass on your car’s windshield, the screen on your iPhone, or the table you’re sitting at right now. In other words, there’s still some pretty durable stuff out there. Let’s talk about how hard a gem needs to be in order to stand up to daily wear.

What is the Mohs Hardness Scale?

The Mohs Hardness Scale was developed to rank the hardness of gemstones and minerals. It goes from 1 (Talc) to 10 (Diamond). This is useful when trying to select a gemstone engagement ring center stone, because we know how hard daily life is. Huh? No seriously, hear me out.

Dust is a 7/10 on the scale.

You know, the stuff floating around in the air? That’s the stuff that will scratch your gemstone when you try to clean it. So, when choosing a gemstone engagement ring, your best bet is to choose a gemstone of 7.5/10 and above. The closer to 10/10 you get, the more durable your ring will be.

What Gemstones Make Good Engagement Ring Center Stones?

Gemstones of a 7.5/10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale and above make the best engagement ring center stones. My own Spinel is an 8/10, and I still treat it very gingerly (and love it very much!) Let’s review some durable gemstone engagement ring options, in order of hardness:

Emerald Engagement Rings

• Look for a beautiful medium (not too light or too dark) green
• Stay away from gems with dangerous, surface-reaching inclusions

Emerald is a beautiful, mystical green. It is durable, at a 7.5/10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. Its name derives from Sanskrit, and it symbolizes growth and energy. Emerald comes in many shades, including pure green, yellow-green, and blueish-Green. It can be light or dark. As a Type III gemstone, Emerald often shows extensive eye-visible inclusions. In other words, don’t expect an Emerald to be flawless. Some people call an Emerald’s inclusions its “garden.” Couples choosing an Emerald engagement ring should take caution that inclusions which reach the surface of the gem may increase its risk for chipping. So, watch out for large inclusions which meet the edges of your stone. Also, make sure to choose an emerald engagement ring setting that protects any inclusions which may put the ring at risk.

Emerald Engagement Ring

Aquamarine Engagement Rings

• Very shiny and eye clean
• Darker stones hide dirt and oil better than light gems

Aquamarine is a shiny, light blue gem that symbolizes tranquility and healing. Unlike its sister, Emerald, Aquamarine is a Type I gem, meaning it should be pretty flawless. Like Emerald, it is a 7.5/10 on the Hardness Scale. Aquas can come in light, medium, and darker blue tones. It sometimes shows a hint of green, like the sea. Couples choosing an Aquamarine engagement ring should look for an eye-clean gem that shows its blue color. Lighter blues are less valuable than medium or medium-dark blues. Darker color blues will also help to hide when your Aquamarine engagement ring is not sparkling clean, whereas light blue shows dirt and oil much more easily.

Topaz Engagement Rings

• Big stones available
• Eye clean

Topaz is an 8/10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale, making it a good engagement ring option. It symbolizes wealth and royalty. The most common color of Topaz today is blue, however it is also naturally found in colorless, pink, yellow, and peach hues. Blue Topaz comes in some massive crystals, making it a great choice for couples that want a huge look. When choosing a Topaz engagement ring, you should look for an eye clean stone with medium color.

Spinel Engagement Rings

• Multiple colors, with red, blue, pink, and purple being most common
• Search for eye clean gems

My engagement ring is a Spinel! Although it is not commonly heard of, Spinel makes a good engagement ring choice due to its 8/10 hardness on the Mohs Scale and its vast array of colors. Spinel symbolizes power and protection. My Spinel is a blueish-Violet color, but I have also designed Spinel engagement rings in bright Pink and Black. The most sought after colors in this gemstone engagement ring are red, pink, and blue, as they can rival Ruby and Sapphire. Spinel is a Type II gemstone, which means they often have some inclusions, but can also be eye-clean. So, couples choosing a Spinel should look for an eye-clean stone in a color that speaks to them!

Alexandrite & Chrysoberyl Engagement Rings

• Great hardness at 8.5/10
• Alexandrite changes color from green to red
• Chrysoberyl is yellow, green, or bronze

Alexandrite is a great choice for an engagement ring due to its 8.5/10 Mohs hardness. It is the color-change version of the larger gem group Chrysoberyl, and symbolizes luck and balance. Alexandrite changes from green in daylight to red under a light bulb. Non-alexandrite Chrysoberyl comes in yellow, bronze, and green. Chrysoberyl symbolizes protection and healing. Chrysoberyl and Alexandrite are Type II gemstones, meaning they will have some inclusions, but eye-clean gems are available. So, couples choosing this engagement ring should look for eye clean gems.

When looking for an Alexandrite engagement ring, the most important thing to consider is the quality of its colors and color change. Couples looking for a Chrysoberyl engagement ring should seek out a pleasing, warm color.

Sapphire Engagement Rings & Ruby Engagement Rings

• Superior gemstone hardness
• Rich colors in all the rainbow

Sapphire and its sister, Ruby, are the hardest non-diamond gems available at a 9/10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. Members of the gem family Corundum, red gems are Ruby, and all the other rainbow colors are Sapphire. A Sapphire engagement ring signifies loyalty. A Ruby engagement ring symbolizes love and passion. Sapphire and Ruby are Type II gems, meaning they will have some inclusions, but eye clean gems should be sought out. Rich medium tones (in other words, not too light and not too dark) are the most beautiful and valuable. Because of its superior hardness and crazy amount of colors, a Sapphire engagement ring is an excellent gemstone engagement ring choice. Likewise, due to its romantic color and great durability, couples looking for something different should definitely consider a Ruby engagement ring.

What Gemstones Are Risky as Engagement Rings?

Opal Engagement Rings

• Very soft
• Instead, consider star sapphire

Opals are beautiful shimmery gems that are very, very soft. A 5.5-6.5 on the Mohs Hardness Scale, in fact. So, even with extreme caution, there is a real chance the gem will break during normal wear. As a result, Opal engagement rings are not ideal. Instead, couples looking for an Opal engagement ring should check out Star Sapphire – much harder and just as unique!

Morganite Engagement Rings

• Shows dirt and oil almost immediately
• Instead, consider Pink Sapphire, Pink Topaz, and Pink Spinel

Morganite is a peachy-pink gem that is typically eye clean. It symbolizes love and innocence. This may sound like an ideal engagement ring choice, but real life gets in the way. Because of its light color and lack of significant sparkle, Morganite shows dirt and oil almost immediately. Even people who take great care of their rings will experience this, because, well, life. You have oil on your skin, put on makeup, use hairspray, wash your hands. So, instead of choosing a Morganite engagement ring, couples should check out Pink Topaz, Pink Spinel, or Pink Sapphire – much harder, and do not show dirt and oil as easily!

Pearl Engagement Rings

• Very, very soft
• Instead, consider cabochon sapphire

Pearl engagement rings are romantic. Unfortunately, they are also too soft, at a 2.5-4.5 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. Normal damage we see to Pearl engagement rings include loss of the pearl, dull spots where the nacre has worn off, and chipping. This is tragic! Instead, couples looking for a Pearl engagement ring should consider a white cabochon Sapphire instead. A sapphire engagement ring is much harder, and will last the test of time.

Amethyst Engagement Rings

• Too soft
• Instead, consider Purple Sapphire

Amethyst is a rich, Welch’s grape purple that people adore for a unique engagement ring. Sadly, at a 7/10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale, Amethyst is the same hardness as dust. As a result, Amethyst will wear poorly over time, experiencing mini scratches until it is dull. That’s not what you want for an engagement ring! Instead, couples searching for an Amethyst engagement ring should check out Purple Sapphire which is much harder and will always be beautiful.

Tanzanite Engagement Rings

• Too soft
• Instead, look for Violet Spinel

Tanzanite burst onto the scene in 1967, and suddenly everyone wanted a Tanzanite engagement ring. It’s no wonder – it’s a gorgeous blue-violet that is quite uncommon in gems. However, at 6-6.5/10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale, it’s a bad idea for an engagement ring. Instead, couples looking for a Tanzanite engagement ring should look for Violet Spinel (like mine!). Spinel is much harder than Tanzanite and will hold up to daily wear much better.

Moss Agate Engagement Rings

• Too soft
• Instead, consider a jardin Emerald

Moss Agate is a unique gemstone with organic, leaf-like inclusions. This kind of appearance is very popular with those who feel a connection with nature! Unfortunately, however, moss agate is a variety of quartz, meaning it is only a 7/10 on the hardness scale. This means it is risk for scratching, chipping, and generally becoming dull, like the ring below. We have helped many couples replace an original moss agate engagement ring that has sadly broken. Most of these couples opt for emerald or a unique green sapphire! Sapphire is a 9/10 hardness and comes in a ton of beautiful green shades – and it can even have great inclusions, reminiscent of moss agate. Nature-loving couples may also love emerald’s mossy “jardin” appearance – which actually means garden in French!

Scratched moss agate ring. Photo by spartcom5 on Antiquers.

Natural green sapphire ring with lily-pad like inclusions.

Can You Help Me Design a Great, Durable Gemstone Engagement Ring?

I’d love to! Contact me here and describe the delicious color you’re looking for! I will walk you through what gemstone options are the most durable and find the perfect stone for you.

What is a Lab Diamond?

• Lab Grown Diamonds are real diamonds.
• Lab Diamonds and Natural Diamonds are basically the same, both chemically and visually.

A “Lab Diamond” is just like a Natural Diamond, except instead of growing in the Earth, they grow in a lab. There is no visual difference between high quality Lab Created Diamonds vs Natural Diamonds. They sparkle the same, have the same types of color and clarity (more on small nuances below), and can come in the same sizes and shapes. Likewise, Lab Grown Diamonds are just as hard as Natural Diamonds.

Carbon is the main element in both Natural and Lab Diamonds. The only chemical difference between Lab Diamonds vs Natural Diamonds is that most Natural Diamonds contain tiny amounts of nitrogen, and Lab Diamonds do not. This lack of nitrogen is one way gemologists can identify Lab Created Diamonds vs Natural Diamonds. Laser inscription and unique fluorescence are other identifying features of Lab Grown Diamonds.

How are Lab Diamonds Grown?

There are currently two methods of creating Lab Diamonds: high temperature (HPHT) and chemical vapor deposition (CVD).

Chemical Vapor Deposition Diamonds (CVD)

Chemical Vapor Deposition – or CVD – is the newest method to create lab diamonds. To create a CVD diamond, scientists place a diamond tiny “seed crystal” in a small chamber filled with mineral-rich gas. When the gases are heated, they begin to form layer upon layer of carbon onto the seed crystal. You can imagine this somewhat like a 3D printer! These layers build upon one another to make the diamond grow into a large enough crystal to facet into the diamonds we sell today.

High Temperature Diamonds (HPHT)

HPHT diamonds have been around for a bit longer, but only recently have we perfected this technology! Previously, HPHT was only used as a “treatment” to “whiten” natural diamonds that were born a less flattering color. Now, diamond scientists create beautiful, bright white lab diamonds from common carbon! To create a HPHT diamond, scientists place natural graphite (like the carbon in your pencil tip!) in a large machine and crushes it with extreme pressure and high temperature. The reason this works is because it mimics how the Earth uses heat and pressure to form Natural Diamonds.

CVD vs. HPHT Diamonds

There is no visual difference between high quality CVD and HPHT diamonds. Both technologies can produce beautiful, high end stones which rival natural diamonds. There are small differences which may be noticeable between CVD vs HPHT diamonds when the growth process is rushed, or trace elements find their way into the mix. Notable things to ask your jeweler about (as they do not appear on certificates) include “crystal strain”, “blue nuance”, and brown or mixed “tinge”. Long story short, when looking at a CVD diamond, make sure the stone does not show significant crystal strain – it will make your sparkle less crisp. Blue nuance stones, which occur through the HPHT process, can be desirable in the right conditions. You can read more about these issues here.

Is a Lab Diamond Fake?

No. A Lab Diamond is a real diamond. Because Lab Grown Diamonds have the same chemical and visual properties as Natural Diamonds, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) even recognized Lab Diamonds as real in 2018.

Lab Diamonds vs. Cubic Zirconia (CZ) and Moissanite

Cubic Zirconia and Moissanite are diamond “simulants.” This means that although clear in color like a diamond, they are not the same chemical substance as a diamond.

Lab Diamond vs Cubic Zirconia (CZ)

Cubic Zirconia (CZ) is a lab gem that was first made in 1976. There is no such thing as natural CZ. CZ can be completely colorless or a variety of colors. It is flawless. CZ produces more colored light (or “fire”) than diamond does, however it reflects less light in general. Importantly, CZ is nowhere near as hard as diamond. So, over time, CZ often develops unsightly scratches and wear. Diamond, on the other hand, is the hardest substance known to man, and will resist showing wear.

Lab Diamonds vs Moissanite

Moissanite can be natural, but it is rare. Instead, scientists create Moissanite for jewelry. At a hardness of 9.25/10, Moissanite is much harder than CZ, but still softer than 10/10 Diamond. Moissanite can be colorless and near colorless. It shows MUCH more colored sparkle (“fire”) than CZ or Diamond. For those looking for an alternative to a Natural Diamond, Moissanite’s hardness and sparkle make it a good engagement stone option to consider, along with Lab Diamonds.

Lab Diamonds vs. Natural Diamonds: Main Differences

Although there is no difference in appearance between high quality Natural Diamonds vs Lab Diamonds, there are big differences in cost, value, rarity, and sustainability.

The Look

• High Quality Lab Diamonds and Natural Diamonds look exactly the same.
• Lower clarity Lab Diamonds have a few inclusions that do not occur in Natural diamonds.

There is no difference in look between high quality Lab Diamonds vs Natural Diamonds. Both Natural and Lab Grown Diamonds can be colorless or near colorless. They both can also be a variety of candy colors. Likewise, both Lab Diamonds and Natural Diamonds come in all standard shapes such as round, princess, oval, marquise, pear, cushion, radiant, emerald, and asscher. The sparkle and brilliance of Lab and Natural Diamonds are the same. High Quality stones are identical in look. Lower clarity lab diamonds (those where inclusions are visible to the naked eye) may have different inclusions than their natural counterparts. This is discussed in more detail below.

Lab Diamonds Price

• Lab Diamonds cost much less than Natural Diamonds.

As you’d expect, Lab Diamonds cost significantly less than Natural Diamonds. This is because we depend upon Mother Nature to create Natural Diamonds, whereas we make our own Lab Diamonds. High quality Lab Grown Diamonds are fairly new. So, Lab Diamond prices have been changing a bit in the last few years. Currently, in a comparison between Lab Diamonds vs Natural Diamonds of similar size, cut, color, and clarity, a Lab Diamond is approximately 10-30% of the price of a Natural Diamond. For example, check these out:

Value

• The long-term value of Lab Diamonds is not yet settled.
• High quality Natural Diamond values have stayed fairly consistent.

Because high quality Lab Diamonds are newcomers to jewelry, and new Lab Diamond brands are launching regularly, the long-term value of Lab Grown Diamonds is not yet settled. That is to say, in the future, technology could advance and Lab Diamond prices could decrease, lowering the value of previously sold Lab Diamonds. Or, on the other hand, as couples learn more about the benefits of Lab Diamonds, demand could rise, increasing values.

With the creation of Lab Diamonds, and the changing needs of millennials, demand for Natural Diamonds has decreased. However, with rising education on diamond grading, and the invention of diamond grading tools like ASET Scopes, the Natural Diamonds purchased today are of much higher quality than ever before. So, high quality Natural Diamond values have stayed fairly consistent.

Sustainability

• Mining Natural Diamonds is not very sustainable.
• Creating Lab Diamonds is more sustainable.

Natural Diamond is crystal-clear carbon mined from rock called “kimberlite” deep in the Earth. There is a lot of gossip about the actual rarity of diamonds. This confusion arises from the difference between “gem quality diamonds” and diamonds of lesser quality. True, there are many “industrial-drill-bit-quality” diamonds dug up every day. But we doubt that’s what you want on your finger. In reality, around 100,000 tons of rock has to be dug up and searched through to find a single crystal which could yield a 1.00ct D/Flawless diamond. As you can imagine, moving that much Earth on a regular basis to mine Natural Diamonds is not a very sustainable practice. This is one reason why Do Amore gives back with every diamond purchase.

Creating diamonds in a lab, on the other hand, is much more sustainable. No mining is needed, so the Earth’s crust isn’t disturbed. And, labs are controlled environments, so they are safe and predictable. Finally, many of our lab diamonds are grown using sustainable energy, such as wind, hydro, or solar power!

Buying Process

The buying process for a lab diamond is similar to the process of buying a natural diamond, with a few differences. With natural stones, it is best to choose a GIA certified diamond. With lab diamonds, respected certificates include GIA, GCAL, and IGI. However, when comparing stones, it is important to note that GIA is the strictest grader, and that IGI grades more loosely. Practically, this means that if you are comparing a GIA G color against an IGI F color, they are both likely G color in reality.

Because lab diamonds can have a few more quirks than natural diamonds, and those quirks are not listed on certificates, it is wise to select a reputable jeweler that will be honest with you about the stones they are selling. Be aware that some jewelers have biases towards natural or lab stones. So, if you want to compare both natural and lab diamonds, make sure you choose a jeweler that sells both and is happy to compare and contrast with you! Bonus points if your jeweler of choice is committed to transparency, sustainability, and charitable giving, like Do Amore.

Next, shop for a stone that catches your eye, or ask the jeweler’s gemologist to run a specific search for you within your budget and desired parameters. Make sure the gemologist reviews your stones to rule out any hidden quality issues. In both natural and lab diamonds, this will include shape-specific cut quality, bowtie, and fisheye issues. In lab diamonds, this also includes crystal strain and tinge problems. If your jeweler does not know what crystal strain or mixed tinge is, you should find a new jeweler.

Finally, once you’ve selected your perfect stone, simply match it to the setting of your choice. It is best practice to match lab side stones to a lab center and natural side stones to a natural center!

Have questions on these steps? Reach out to us at care@doamore.com!

Grading and Certification

• Couples should choose GIA for Natural Diamond Certification.
• Those seeking a Lab Diamond should choose GIA, GCAL, or IGI for Certification.

Almost all gem labs grade Natural Diamonds on the D-Z color and FL-I3 clarity scales. Many gem labs grade Lab Diamonds differently, however.

As we discussed in our diamond certification post, a GIA Certified diamond has the strictest grading. However, as GIA just recently began grading lab diamonds and does not grade them as frequently, Do Amore additionally recommends GCAL and IGI for your Lab Diamond. Both GCAL and IGI use the same D-Z color scale and FL-I3 clarity scale for Natural and Lab Diamonds. GCAL has a “zero tolerance” grading policy, and is a fairly strict grading lab. IGI was the first lab to grade lab diamonds, and in our experience, has taken the task seriously. While perhaps not quite as strict, they are definitely more well known, and have more extensive experience grading Lab Diamonds. So, couples wanting strict grading should choose a GIA or GCAL Certificate. Couples that desire broad recognition should consider IGI.

Pros of a Lab Grown Diamond

The pros of choosing a lab diamond include lower cost, larger sizes, sustainability, and ethical peace of mind. Because lab diamonds are so much less expensive per carat than natural diamonds, couples are able to choose considerably larger stones. This means more bang for your buck! Choosing a diamond that is grown in a lab also means you know that the stone did not require mining tons and tons of Earth, and the people creating the stone were in safe, controlled environments.

Cons of a Lab Grown Diamond

The cons of choosing a lab diamond revolve around their newness to market. Because lab diamonds are  a relatively new option, pricing has not yet stabilized. So, as compared with natural diamonds, jewelers cannot guarantee what a lab diamond will be worth in the future. In addition, because they are so new, some people feel there is stigma associated with choosing a lab diamond. However, this market is growing exponentially, with younger generations flatly refusing natural stones and opting only to consider lab options. Consequently, we believe the market will continue to grow and thrive.

Are Lab Diamonds flawless?

Not usually! Unlike flawless Cubic Zirconia (CZ) and Moissanite discussed above, Lab Diamonds, just like Natural Diamonds, typically have internal marks that gemologists call “inclusions.” These inclusions are a diamond’s birthmarks. Because Lab Diamonds are also crystal carbon, they have the same types of inclusions as Natural Diamonds, like feathers, clouds, and pinpoints. I am asked sometimes if I can tell real vs lab diamond by a stone’s inclusions. The answer is, sometimes.

Because of the way Lab Diamonds are made, certain Lab Grown Diamonds have small metallic inclusions, flux-like inclusions, or crystal strain that mined diamonds do not. Also, due to the way some lab grown diamonds are laser engraved with their inscription, some lab diamonds also show reflections of their black certification number.

Why do couples choose Lab Diamonds?

• Couples choose Lab Diamonds because they are less expensive and sustainable.

Couples choose Lab Diamonds for a variety of reasons. Cost is king to many newly engaged couples. A big look for less money? Yes, please! As Lab Diamonds vs Natural Diamonds are indistinguishable, many couples feel there’s no reason to pay more money for a natural, mined stone.

Other couples like knowing that their Lab Diamond did not need to be mined from the Earth. This can be due to their preference that the Earth be left in its natural state, or because they want diamonds free from conflict.

Couples concerned about intense mining or questionable ethics may take comfort in knowing the lengths we go to in order to offer only the most sustainable and ethical Natural Diamonds on the market today. Do Amore goes a step further than the Kimberley Process by purchasing only from “Diamond Sightholders,” an elite group of diamond houses recognized for their well-established, outstanding ethical accountability and excellent reputation. We also proudly offer natural Canadian Mark and Recycled Diamonds for those wanting additional reassurances as to the ethics of their Natural Diamond. Click here for more about Do Amore’s commitment to conflict-free diamonds.

Why do couples choose Natural Diamonds?

• Couples choose Natural Diamonds because they are traditional, rare, and mysterious.

Like Lab Grown Diamonds, couples have different reasons for choosing Natural Diamonds. For some, it is a family tradition. Others really enjoy wearing something that is so rare. For many, it is the mystique that the Earth produced this clear, sparkly gemstone. These couples enjoy learning about the nuances of their specific stone, and how it could have formed that way. Finally, some couples feel it is a matter of value, and the consistency in Natural Diamond pricing is a comfort.

Will people know if I have a Lab Diamond?

Not unless you tell them. There’s no visual difference between Lab Diamonds vs Natural Diamonds to the naked eye. So, can you tell real vs lab diamond? Not without a diamond lab in your back pocket!

Can you help me choose the right Lab Diamond?

Of course! I would love to discuss the benefits of Lab Diamonds vs Natural Diamonds with you and help you pick the perfect stone! Send me an email at care@doamore.com and we can start your Lab Diamond journey today!

How do you pick an oval diamond?

1. Choose a stone with some contrast
2. Avoid dark or watery bowties & tips
3. Pick between crushed ice oval vs lively oval
4. Pick a pretty, pleasing shape!
5. Avoid fisheyes & odd reflections

Want to know more? Read on!

Tip #1: Get an Oval Cut Diamond with Even Contrast/Brilliance

Tip #2: Know About Oval Diamond Bowties

Too much dark contrast in the center of your oval cut diamond that looks like a black bowtie is just not attractive, avoid it! Likewise, watery, washed out bowties are not very pretty either. You want a bowtie area with even contrast and brilliance (there it is again!) I receive oval diamond bowtie questions all the time, and there’s a lot of misinformation out there about them – let’s get it straightened out.

Do all oval diamonds have a bow tie?

Yes, all oval cut diamonds have bowties. Though like James Bond’s vs Bill Nye’s, some are simply better than others. An oval cut diamond’s bowtie is in its middle, as a result of this cut’s nice long length! Necessarily, oval facets are shorter width wise, and longer length wise. Thus, an oval diamond’s middle will always look different than its tips! It wears a bowtie!

What causes a bow tie in an oval diamond?

A diamond bowtie occurs when width facets are shorter and are steeper than its length facets. These differences in depth and angles cause light to refract differently in an oval’s center vs its tips. So, if a cutter is not careful, those deep center facets can turn into a dark oval diamond bowtie! But there’s hope! Skilled diamond cutters will avoid dark bowties and also include well placed contrast throughout the stone to make an even appearance.

Is a bow tie in a diamond bad?

Yes, an overly dark bowtie, or a watery bowtie, can look pretty bad. The goal is to look for a stone in which the cutter has blended the bowtie in. This means looking for a stone that has both contrast and brilliance not only in the bowtie area, but also in the tips.

Tip #3: Oval Cut Diamond Style Quirks

Oh, you fancy, huh? Oval diamonds are considered “fancy” shapes – and for good reason! There’s several different shape considerations and cutting styles to choose from! End (or “tip”) style, pavilion main (I like to call this “star ray”) style, length ratio, and shoulder curve…the list goes on! Check it out:

What do you mean “tips”?

An oval diamond’s “tips” (also called “ends“) are the soft round arcs at each end! These tips can be cut with one larger diamond shaped facet, or can be faceted with several! While I do not necessarily recommend one over the other, two things are for certain: avoid dark or overly colored tips.

Avoid dark tips

Dark tips take away from the beauty of your stone. This most frequently occurs in diamonds with one flat facet on each tip, and very infrequently in stones with multi-faceted tips. That’s because it’s easier to break up overly dark contrast with more facets at more angles. This doesn’t mean you should throw out all ovals with single facet tips – just to learn what to look for. Watch the 360 video of your stone closely – do the tips look dark as it spins? If so, reject it! Dark tips take away from sparkle and brilliance.

Avoid inconsistent color in your oval tips!

Don’t buy a diamond with more warmth in its tips than its center. Because diamond tips are shallower than its middle (and thus have less opportunity to refract light), they often show more color. So, while you’re looking at that beautiful spinning sparkler, take a look at the color of the tips compared with its belly. Are they the same? Or is there a concentration of warmth in the tips? If the tips look warmer than the rest of the diamond, pass. Color consistency is key!

Oval diamond pavilion main (star ray!) style

Ovals can be cut with 4, 6, or 8 pavilion mains (which look like 4, 6, or 8 rayed stars). One cutting style is not better than another, it is personal preference! Some people prefer the look of a 4 ray which has big bold facets, others like the interesting pattern of the 6 (6s are rare!), and many prefer the added liveliness and pinfire bling of an 8 (this is the most widely cut). Check them out here, which is your favorite?

Oval cut diamond shoulder curve

Choosing a graceful shoulder curve boosts both beauty and value. A diamond’s shoulder curve is the arc between its belly (its bowtie area) and its tips. An ideal oval cut diamond shoulder is soft and curving. However, shoulders can also look flat (approaching a marquise look) or square/heavy (approaching an elongated cushion appearance). So, take some time and look at the outline of your oval. Is it soft and appealing? Or does it feel bulky or overly harsh? You’re choosing an oval for its shape – so pick one you like!

Tip #4: Length-to-Width Ratio in Ovals

Length to width ratio shows you how long and skinny or wide and plump your oval cut diamond will be. While it sounds kind of technical and complicated, it is actually only the length measurement of a diamond divided by its width. That’s it!

What is the best ratio for oval diamond?

Most people say the ideal length-to-width ratio of an oval is 1.35-1.50. Diamonds that fall within this range will not be too round, or too pointy! The lower the ratio, the plumper the oval. Likewise, the higher the ratio, the skinnier! One perk of a higher length-to-width oval ratio is that skinny ovals appear larger than their carat weight due to their length. However, it all comes down to personal preference. Some people prefer rounder ovals (at its extreme, we call it a roval – a round oval) while the opposite extreme prefers a very tall, thin oval (we call his a moval – a marquise oval). These outliers can have a lot of character!

Tip #5: Oval Cut Diamond Fisheyes & Reflections

Nothing is worse than a perfect-on-paper oval that’s littered with random weird reflections. Ok, there’s probably a few worse things, but still, the point stands. So, to get the most beautiful oval, you have to know what you’re looking for. A fisheye is when a diamond’s girdle (it’s very outside edge) reflects awkwardly under its table, making a ghostly white ring. It’s not very attractive – nix them! Additionally, due to their length, oval cut diamonds can show other odd reflections, too. So while you’re watching that diamond spin – look under the table (the big top facet). Are there weird reflections that mess with your sparkle? Pass! The best ovals will have crisp, clean facets showing – you guessed it – even brilliance and contrast.

Can you help me find the best oval cut diamond?

You betcha! I love ovals – and so does Krish, our founder, he proposed with one! Write to either (or both!) of us at care@doamore.com and we will custom curate a selection of stunning ovals for you to choose from – all with max bang for your buck!